Helichrysum Hydrolate for Skin Healing: Traditional Use vs Scientific Research

Helichrysum italicum essential oil and other extracts are well-known for their skin-healing, regenerative, and anti-inflammatory properties. The same effects are often attributed to its hydrolat (hydrosol), largely based on experienced aromatherapists’ observations rather than direct scientific evidence.

Two recent in-vitro studies by Diletta Serra and colleagues (published in 2023 and 2024) from the University of Sassari, Italy, provide valuable insights into how Helichrysum italicum hydrolate (hereafter HH) supports skin regeneration, especially during wound healing.

Here’s what they discovered and what it could mean for everyday applications.

Key Findings of Scientific Research on Helichrysum italicum hydrolate

Chemical Composition and Tested Concentrations

HH contains phenolic compounds – mainly derivatives of caffeoylquinic acids (such as chlorogenic acid) and flavonoids (notably naringenin derivatives). These substances have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects.

The research tested the hydrolate on two important types of skin cells in the lab: skin stem cells and fibroblasts. Skin stem cells are responsible for renewing and repairing damaged skin by producing new cells, while fibroblasts help rebuild the skin’s structure by producing collagen and other essential proteins. The studies showed that HH was safe for both cell types at concentrations up to about 30%, meaning it did not harm the cells. Only the highest concentration tested (40%) slightly reduced the survival of fibroblasts.

This suggests HH can promote skin healing without being toxic, especially at moderate concentrations suitable for skincare use.

Healing and Regeneration Effects

• The scratch assay, which simulates a wound in cell cultures, showed HH significantly boosts migration of both fibroblasts and stem cells into the wounded area, especially at 20-30% concentration.
• Cell proliferation (growth) improved with 20-30% HH.
• HH stimulated genes linked to “stemness” (SOX2, Oct-4, NANOG), indicating activation of skin regeneration processes.
• Genes involved in wound healing and inflammation regulation (HAS2 for hyaluronic acid production, CASP8, and TNF-α) were modulated differently depending on concentration, suggesting HH promotes balanced healing rather than overstimulation.
• HH encouraged collagen production and organization by fibroblasts, which supports rebuilding the skin’s matrix – important for stronger, more elastic skin and smoother healing. This was also confirmed in an advanced 3-D cell culture model mimicking real skin.

What This Means for Everyday Use

• Wound Support: HH can support skin regeneration after minor injuries such as cuts, scrapes, burns, or abrasions, making it a useful ingredient in aftercare or formulations for damaged skin.
• Optimal Concentrations: In laboratory tests, the 20-30% range of Helichrysum hydrolate showed the strongest positive effects on skin cell healing and regeneration. This may align quite well with hydrolate concentrations used in creams or lotions. While undiluted hydrolate (100%) is often used as a refreshing spray, in contrast to lab conditions, in real-life skin is not exposed to it for 24 or 48 hours continuously. Instead, the application is intermittent, allowing the skin to absorb and process the hydrolate over time. Therefore, I am not concerned about the use of undiluted hydrosol in practical aromatherapy or skincare routines.
• Collagen Production: HH’s ability to promote collagen suggests it may help wounds heal with better texture and less visible scarring, which also supports its use for mature or aging skin care.
• Balanced Action: Rather than forcing unregulated cell growth, HH appears to recognize damaged tissue and promote healing accordingly, making it potentially safer for skin regeneration.

Main Takeaway

While human clinical trials are still needed to confirm these promising laboratory results, these studies support the traditional uses of Helichrysum italicum hydrolate in skin healing and regeneration.

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Resources:

1. Diletta Serra et al (2023). Hydrolate of Helichrysum italicum Promotes Tissue Regeneration During Wound Healing.
2. Diletta Serra et al (2024). Effect of Helichrysum italicum in Promoting Collagen Deposition and Skin Regeneration in a New Dynamic Model of Skin Wound Healing.